1. My flare fitting to the master cylinder from the distribution block for front brakes wasn't seated all the way -- so when I bled the brakes I had leaking coming from there.
2. The lines were reversed. I guess I read "front brakes front port, rear brakes rear port" in my head when I reviewed the CSRP instructions (more on this in a minute). I got a solid bleed at some point but there was still a lot of travel in the pedal. After examining everything I realized that I had the bigger of the two reservoirs in the master cylinder plumbed to the rear brakes (though it was very clear in my mind that the discs need more pressure, hence more fluid et al). I swapped these and called it a night last night. I made a mess of myself, the tarp and any painted tools lying in the way of bleeding brake fluid. All the while during all of this when the engine was running I still had very, very light pedal action.
3. Re-bled this afternoon and I seemed to have a pretty firm pedal with the engine off. Fire up the engine and I had the light pedal again. After reviewing everything I've come to the conclusion that the booster works just -that well-. I've inquired to CSRP about limiting the amount of assist it gives.
4. Road test. Broke in the pads per the instructions and then went to work adjusting the proportioning valve. I probably need a few more tweaks on the valve for all conditions but as far I can tell I'm getting the desired front-then-rear lockup effect.
Here are some pictures of the newly installed booster + master cylinder + proportioning valve (you can see the black knob on the valve - installed below)
I have some fine tuning of the pedal height to do, but so far so good on the road test this evening. Braking is MUCH improved over before.
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