Power Disc Brake Conversion Install "Issues"

I completely forgot to post the tough parts of the installation. What makes matters worse is that in the midst of me uploading the pictures of the tough parts of the install I had an iPhoto crash which deleted the pics off the iPhone and ate them. Lame.

The overall name of the game was not enough clearance. You have such a limited space to work in between the shock tower, firewall, and in my case headers+valve cover bolts that are large wing nuts. In addition I run an export brace on top of the original shock tower->firewall ties which serves both as a tool shelf and an annoyance.

Tools:
- The bolt-head size of just about everything is 9/16" -- which is a departure from the ``normal" 1/2 inch-everything on the car. For awhile there I thought I had a GM! (not).

- The bleeder screws on the new calipers are 3/8".

- You might need a mechanic's mirror (see below) if you're doing a power conversion like I am.

- You'll need a 10mm flare wrench for the flare fittings.

- I had to use my alligator-style vice grip for a few portions of the install

- I had to use a blow torch on the distribution block to separate the rear line from the block. Plan on using one if your flare fittings here or down in the wheel wells have not been moved in many years.

Working in this area of the engine compartment proved to be difficult for me because having the car on jack stands+my height and arm length required a combination of standing on toes + a small step stool + getting frustrated at points and climbing up on the fender to reach down (which is never comfortable).

The booster proved to be the most strenuous part of the installation. The booster-to-firewall bracket is in two sections and with the exception of a 1/4" drive socket nothing fits around the kit-provided bolts but an open-ended wrench.

I had to detach the booster from the master cylinder (to bench bleed anyway), and separate the booster from its firewall brackets to bolt it up.

The top firewall side bolt hole in each bracket is conveniently parallel with the hole to attach the booster to the bracket, so I was able to use a 1/4" ratchet + extension through the other hole to attach the top bolts. The easiest method for attaching the bottom bolts I found (and this is especially true for the inner bracket -- the one furthest away from you when you're standing over the fender) is to start with them horizontal so you can actually SEE and REACH the bolt until its almost tight then swing it into position and finish tightening it down. Again, on the bottom bolt NOTHING in my tool cache fit except an open ended wrench. Even then, due to clearance my Craftsman Cross-force (long) open ended wrench was too long to get good leverage, my standard open ended wrench was a bit too long too. I have a set of open-ended Husky wrenches that have a flexible ratchet closed end on the bottom that I eventually got to work. It's possible a short offset wrench would have worked but this was Mother's Day and I was too filthy to go in search of one.

Once the booster-to-firewall bracket was installed, it was time to mount up the booster. Getting the right combination of a tool that would fit + reaching around to access it was tough. Although I was able to reach all 4 stand-off threads with my hand, a wrench isn't so flexible. I ended up using my mechanics mirror for the inner-bottom nut so I could see it while I fished the wrench around it. The outer one was even more challenging because it's so close to the fender wall. Patience is a virtue bolting up the booster.

Bolting the master cylinder to the booster was easy and it went in without issue. HOWEVER, when I later tried to remove the master cylinder (with the lines hooked up) to check the push rod clearance et al -- this proved to be tough. With the lines connected there just isn't enough room to move the master cylinder as much as you could with them disconnected. I imagine if you're not doing power discs none of this will be an issue.

I walked the entire length of all my steel lines with my hands as best as I could and found them to be in excellent shape. There weren't any signs of rust, cracking, stress, corrosion, etc. I did not replace my hard lines during this exercise, but might opt to change them out entirely in the near future when I do my fuel lines or go with rear discs.

Other random things:

- A couple of my hard-line flare nuts were slightly rounded. For these I had to use the alligator-style vice grips to get a hold of

- If a 10mm flare wrench isn't obtainable a 10mm open ended wrench also works just be careful. It's very easy to round off these fittings.

- I found it particularly useful to disconnect the two wiring harnesses to the left and right of the master cylinder/brake booster area on the firewall. DEFINITELY disconnect and cover the one at the left most position on the firewall if you have to torch the distribution block to remove the rear brake line or you'll melt it.

- As I stated above plan on torching any flare fitting that hasn't moved in several years. In my case I have reasonable belief that the fittings at the distribution block had never moved except to be assembled in San Jose back in 1965. When I replaced the rubber front hoses previously on the car I played games with penetrating oil and WD-40 for 2-3 days before going to blow torch. This time I just went to blow torch and had the rear line flare nut moving in the distribution block in under 10 minutes. If you are using WD-40 or another penetrating oil on it prior to the torch make sure you wipe it down -- WD-40 is a flammable liquid after all.

- The L brackets provided with the kit to mount the front rubber hose-to-hard-line connections were a bit too short to reach my hard lines so I re-used my existing brackets.

- If you're doing the OEM style swap like me and you are not replacing any hard lines due to damage or wear then the only hard line you need to add is one from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. For this, the local kragen/o'reilly has lengths of pre-made line waiting for you in lengths of 12" and up. I took the proportioning valve with me+ the adapter that went into the master cylinder (the master cylinder has a 3/8" port in front and a 7/16" in the rear. An adapter is provided for your convenience for the rear port). I made sure the appropriate 3/16" diameter tubing + flare nuts fit. It was a good thing too because the first one I picked up was tagged as the right one I needed but the flare nuts didn't thread onto the prop valve nor the adapter. Do you expect anything less from the local discount auto parts store? I don't.

- The proportioning valve with its residual pressure adapter on the back is rather long. Since I wasn't excited about bending the steel lines into an almost 90 degree bend right before the flare fitting I mounted it in a different place than I think the stock one is mounted. I punched two holes in the fender apron and threaded two screws + washers + locking washers through and that was that. I found it easy to not tighten the mounting screws down all the way against the fender apron until the lines were connected up for ease of lining up the flare fittings. There are images in the previous that show where I mounted it.

- When mounting the adjustable push rod sleeve under the dash to attach the brake pedal to the booster, you might need to use your alligator style vice grip again to LIGHTLY hold the threads coming out of the booster because the sleeve is stubborn in some spots threading it on. If I had to do it again I'd thread a second nut on there to hold onto while I adjusted the sleeve. I still might do this as I'm going to lower the pedal a little more. I'm not excited about this. Working under the dash sucks.